Louis Roederer Cristal 1979

This vertical of 1970s Cristals opens with the 1979, a Champagne I have been fortunate to taste and drink on several occasions. When the 1979 is on, it is an astonishingly beautiful wine, as it is on this evening. A rush of aromatics makes a strong first impression. Vivid and totally arresting, the 1979 possesses remarkable depth and sheer vinosity. Hints of caramel, orange peel, spice and cinnamon give the wine a decidedly exotic flair. Over the last few years, the 1979 has lost a bit of the freshness it showed as recently as a few years ago, but it is nevertheless a stunning bottle. The wine’s textural silkiness and finessed mousse reinforce an impression of sublime elegance. The 1979 is utterly spellbinding. It is also the most elegant wine in this tasting. One of the all-time great vintages, the late-ripening 1979 produced a crop of striking Champagnes that have aged impeccably. Cristal is one of the two or three most profound wines of that year.